Anyone have a trick for getting Husqvarna chainsaw brake kickback spring back on?

[Danny D.]

A bunch of trees fell down on my neighbor's property during the last
pineapple express, and his little Ryobi 8" electric chainsaw wasn't
up to the task because we stripped the hold-down bolt threads:
Loading Image...

So I lent him my Husqvarna 18" chainsaw for chopping up the fallen trees:
Loading Image...

End result is that the kickback spring mechanism must have jammed hard,
I think it happened exactly as this picture was taken, actually:
Loading Image...

The result is that I had a devil of a time getting the hold-down cover
off today because the chain break coil was tightly wrapped around the
chainsaw spinning drum:
Loading Image...

I finally was able to loosen the spring circular kickback clamp,
but the spring popped out of his slot in the process:
Loading Image...

The problem now, is getting the kickback clamp spring back on:
Loading Image...

I tried all sorts of leverage tools, but that spring is STRONG!
Loading Image...

Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?

[Phil Kangas]

"Danny D." >

Post by Danny D.
Anyone know the trick to get that

super strong spring back on?


Try sliding it down a thin strip of metal.

[Tom Miller]

Post by Danny D.
A bunch of trees fell down on my neighbor's property during the last
pineapple express, and his little Ryobi 8" electric chainsaw wasn't
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7348/16576214195_edee2d2572_c.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7455/16388696590_ca981a9d47_z.jpg
End result is that the kickback spring mechanism must have jammed hard,
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7333/16389857079_8bd6f14257_z.jpg
The result is that I had a devil of a time getting the hold-down cover
off today because the chain break coil was tightly wrapped around the
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7285/16388368248_c088a7f82c_c.jpg
I finally was able to loosen the spring circular kickback clamp,
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7288/16389735629_1cf166b3b8_c.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7349/16574371231_5e52e56134_z.jpg
I tried all sorts of leverage tools, but that spring is STRONG!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7281/16389735569_221282dc75_z.jpg
Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?

Search on "coil spring compressor" for some ideas. I would use a couple of
washers with some tabs and a long screw, washer and nut to compress it.

[Stormin Mormon]

Post by Tom Miller

Post by Danny D.
Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?

Search on "coil spring compressor" for some ideas. I would use a couple
of washers with some tabs and a long screw, washer and nut to compress it.

Did you actually look at the pictures?

I'll admit, I only looked at one or two.
But, the bolt thing won't do much good
here.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

[Tom Miller]

Post by Stormin Mormon

Post by Tom Miller

Post by Danny D.
Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?

Search on "coil spring compressor" for some ideas. I would use a couple
of washers with some tabs and a long screw, washer and nut to compress it.

Did you actually look at the pictures?
I'll admit, I only looked at one or two.
But, the bolt thing won't do much good
here.
-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.

Sorry, I did not explain it clear enough for you to understand. The bolt is
outside of the spring. A tab on the edge of the washer goes to the inside of
the spring.

There might be better solutions that one could explore.

[Danny D.]

Post by Tom Miller
Sorry, I did not explain it clear enough for you to understand. The bolt is
outside of the spring. A tab on the edge of the washer goes to the inside of
the spring.

I have compressed automotive springs, so, I know what you're talking about.
It's never gonna work in this particular case.

There's just no room and the spring is too strong for any metal that would
actually fit in between the coils and you can't touch the ends since they
fit into a recessed slot.

Here it is before it sprung:
Loading Image...

Here is the after sprung:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7288/16389735629_1cf166b3b8_c.jpg

Plus, there is a fragile plastic insert that goes more than 1/3 of the
way through the one end.

Classic spring compressor?
Nope. Not gonna work at all.
But, it's a good idea for other applications.

[george]

Post by Tom Miller
Sorry, I did not explain it clear enough for you to understand. The bolt is
outside of the spring. A tab on the edge of the washer goes to the inside of
the spring.
There might be better solutions that one could explore.

Incredible, I had this same problem yesterday. After many attempts I was
successful, but I can't say it's an optimal method.

Remove the C-ring holding the 3 armed "sprocket" and lift it off it's
rod. The sprocket arm is in the locked position. Straigthen this assembly.

Put the spring and its assembly back in the groove with the sprocket
assembly out straight , not bent the way you found it. Take a pair of
locking pliers and secure the bottom end of the spring to the housing, Not
so tight that you damage the spring.

Take a thin screw driver about 3/8' wide and insert between the front of
the spring assembly and the housing wall.. Use leverage to compress the
spring. Try again. Work from the inside edge of the housing. I was able
to squeeze the spring and the "sprocket" arm straightened out. I
carefully slipped it over the rod, and then took another locking pliers
and lightly secured the front end of the spring.

Then I replaced the C- ring, attached the plastic frame parts, reattached
to the chain saw body. Tested it and it worked fine.

--

[Danny D.]

Post by Stormin Mormon
I'll admit, I only looked at one or two.
But, the bolt thing won't do much good
here.

Chris understood. There's no room, really, for a "spring compressor".
I've done McPherson struts, and, this is NOTHING like that since
any flimsy metal that fits between the spring coils is NEVER gonna
compress that spring.

If you held that spring in between your fingers, for example, you'd
NEVER get it to compress visibly. It's also VERY BOUNCY so it sproings
all over the place, as you wrestle with leverage tools (e.g.,
long screwdrivers).

There's no room to get a C-clamp on the ends either, as both ends fit
into a recessed slot.

It's not a 0.5-second job, that's for sure.

[Pico Rico]

Post by Danny D.
A bunch of trees fell down on my neighbor's property during the last
pineapple express, and his little Ryobi 8" electric chainsaw wasn't
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7348/16576214195_edee2d2572_c.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7455/16388696590_ca981a9d47_z.jpg
End result is that the kickback spring mechanism must have jammed hard,
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7333/16389857079_8bd6f14257_z.jpg
The result is that I had a devil of a time getting the hold-down cover
off today because the chain break coil was tightly wrapped around the
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7285/16388368248_c088a7f82c_c.jpg
I finally was able to loosen the spring circular kickback clamp,
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7288/16389735629_1cf166b3b8_c.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7349/16574371231_5e52e56134_z.jpg
I tried all sorts of leverage tools, but that spring is STRONG!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7281/16389735569_221282dc75_z.jpg
Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?

do you have a neighbor that is a MAN?

[Danny D.]

Post by Pico Rico
do you have a neighbor that is a MAN?

If it was as easy as you're intimating, then this video that Jeff
kindly found, would never have been needed.
http://youtu.be/gK7eKakMCz8

That guy did it, and said, verbatim "I'm sure there is some official
way to do this, but, I don't know what it is ..."

There are two steps that are not intuitive how to do:
1. Compress the spring to get it in place without poking out an eye,
and,
2. Setting the chain brake into the unlock position since it has to
be in the locked position in order to get the spring in place.

Luckily, I know how, and it should work for me, and I'll report back
when I try it (after responding to these posts).

[Danny D.]

Post by Pico Rico
do you have a neighbor that is a MAN?

Oren.

Can you do me a favor and send Pico Rico pictures of the garage door
springs and McPherson struts we've removed, replaced and compressed.

He seems to think that those of us endowed with small springs don't
also have far larger ones lurking around in our garage that need to
be wound ...

[Oren]

On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 22:19:35 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.

Post by Pico Rico
do you have a neighbor that is a MAN?

Oren.
Can you do me a favor and send Pico Rico pictures of the garage door
springs and McPherson struts we've removed, replaced and compressed.
He seems to think that those of us endowed with small springs don't
also have far larger ones lurking around in our garage that need to
be wound ...

Sorry I can't today, I'm busy. I would gladly advise him to not let
his sprung spring poke his eye out after a spring sprung again.

The Jeff video appears to be the best and easiest method without a
special tool used by professionals - this is basic DIY stuff.

Your packing tape idea was interesting, so I figure it worked.

Pico doesn't live in Californication, USA ...

You and I are shade tree mechanics!

[Danny D.]

Post by Oren
Your packing tape idea was interesting, so I figure it worked.

Hi Oren,

I had tried packing tape:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7306/16388881368_afb75a36fe_c.jpg

I tried electrical wire:
Loading Image...

But, what worked best was making a temporary cover plate!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7453/16410601090_8172e71525_c.jpg

Even so, that cover plate only works for HALF the procedure!

The latter half, you use the original black plastic!
Loading Image...

Of course, that black plastic idea only works if you make
a special female socket tool...
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7292/16411791159_84b7dd9775_c.jpg

[trader_4]

Post by Danny D.
A bunch of trees fell down on my neighbor's property during the last
pineapple express, and his little Ryobi 8" electric chainsaw wasn't
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7348/16576214195_edee2d2572_c.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7455/16388696590_ca981a9d47_z.jpg
End result is that the kickback spring mechanism must have jammed hard,
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7333/16389857079_8bd6f14257_z.jpg
The result is that I had a devil of a time getting the hold-down cover
off today because the chain break coil was tightly wrapped around the
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7285/16388368248_c088a7f82c_c.jpg
I finally was able to loosen the spring circular kickback clamp,
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7288/16389735629_1cf166b3b8_c.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7349/16574371231_5e52e56134_z.jpg
I tried all sorts of leverage tools, but that spring is STRONG!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7281/16389735569_221282dc75_z.jpg
Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?

I've never had to do one of these. But the procedure for getting
any spring like that back on is first to get as much room as possible.
From the picture, the part that it pushes against is in it's most
forward position, not retracted. IDK what it takes to get that to
retract, but if it's retracted, then less compression of the spring
will be necessary.

[Phil Kangas]

On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 9:53:17 PM

Post by Danny D.
A bunch of trees fell down on my neighbor's
property during the last
pineapple express, and his little Ryobi 8"
electric chainsaw wasn't
up to the task because we stripped the
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7348/16576214195_edee2d2572_c.jpg
So I lent him my Husqvarna 18" chainsaw for
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7455/16388696590_ca981a9d47_z.jpg
End result is that the kickback spring
mechanism must have jammed hard,
I think it happened exactly as this picture was
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7333/16389857079_8bd6f14257_z.jpg
The result is that I had a devil of a time
getting the hold-down cover
off today because the chain break coil was
tightly wrapped around the
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7285/16388368248_c088a7f82c_c.jpg
I finally was able to loosen the spring
circular kickback clamp,
but the spring popped out of his slot in the
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7288/16389735629_1cf166b3b8_c.jpg
The problem now, is getting the kickback clamp
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7349/16574371231_5e52e56134_z.jpg
I tried all sorts of leverage tools, but that
spring is STRONG!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7281/16389735569_221282dc75_z.jpg
Anyone know the trick to get that super strong
spring back on?

I've never had to do one of these. But the
procedure for getting
any spring like that back on is first to get as
much room as possible.
From the picture, the part that it pushes
against is in it's most
forward position, not retracted. IDK what it
takes to get that to
retract, but if it's retracted, then less
compression of the spring
will be necessary.

Just slide the fucker in on a strip of thin metal
for chrissakes!
Takes about 0.5 seconds...

[Stormin Mormon]

Post by Phil Kangas

Post by Danny D.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7288/16389735629_1cf166b3b8_c.jpg
The problem now, is getting the kickback clamp
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7349/16574371231_5e52e56134_z.jpg
I tried all sorts of leverage tools, but that
spring is STRONG!

Just slide the fucker in on a strip of thin metal
for chrissakes!
Takes about 0.5 seconds...

Thin piece of metal will compress the STRONG!
spring, how, exactly?

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

[Phil Kangas]

Post by Stormin Mormon

Post by Phil Kangas

Post by Danny D.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7288/16389735629_1cf166b3b8_c.jpg
The problem now, is getting the kickback
clamp
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7349/16574371231_5e52e56134_z.jpg
I tried all sorts of leverage tools, but that
spring is STRONG!

Just slide the fucker in on a strip of thin
metal
for chrissakes!
Takes about 0.5 seconds...

Thin piece of metal will compress the STRONG!
spring, how, exactly?

Depends on what _you_call thin! If it gives, get
a thicker strip! I didn't say beer can
thin....sheesh...

[TimR]

Big C-clamp, maybe? You'd want to run a stiff rod in the center to keep it from jumping out.

[Danny D.]

Post by TimR
Big C-clamp, maybe?
You'd want to run a stiff rod in the center to keep it from jumping out.

I have a LOT of C clamps.
Normally, if you had the room, it might work, but, there is absolutely
no way *any* c-shaped spring compressor is gonna work in this application.

I think I have it though.

The trick is really simple, but it *has* to be done well:
1. You MUST hold down the spring somehow (otherwise it will sproing every time).
2. You MUST leverage on a teeny tiny spot at the END of the spring (only one end)!
3. You MUST then spin the dial, again with leverage on a single point, to
unlock the brake without the benefit of the huge brake lever on the saw.

Anyway, I think I have it now. I hope to report back success once I finish
responding to the posts (just in case a better idea pops up).

Thanks for the help and advice.

[Zak W]

Post by Phil Kangas
Just slide the fucker in on a strip of thin metal
for chrissakes!
Takes about 0.5 seconds...

Nothing is quick or easy when Danny Boi approaches it. That's how he gets
attention.

[TimR]

Just thinking out loud.

Compress it all the way in a vise, run some thin steel wire down the inside and around, twist tightly.

Shove the spring in place, cut the wire?

Or, do you have a bar clamp? might be able to get the spring halfway in place, put the jaws of the bar clamp on it, turn the handle to compress. Good chance of it popping out and nailing you in the face though, might want to wear goggles.

[Danny D.]

Post by TimR
Just thinking out loud.
Compress it all the way in a vise, run some thin steel wire down the inside
and around, twist tightly.
Shove the spring in place, cut the wire?
Or, do you have a bar clamp? might be able to get the spring halfway
in place, put the jaws of the bar clamp on it, turn the handle to compress.
Good chance of it popping out and nailing you in the face though,
might want to wear goggles.

That spring has popped out probably twenty or thirty times already, and,
when it flies, it flies.

I figured it out, with the help of Jeff's video which explained the two
details that I was lacking in my attempts.

I didn't use the method the guy used in the video; but I stole all his
ideas on what the critical danger spots were.

Instead of metal to hold the spring inside, I used packing tape.

I bolted the assembly into a vise and then leveraged with a 2-foot long
screwdriver on the end of the spring (all smaller sizes failed).

You'll notice I leveraged the OPPOSITE end that the guy did in the
video that Jeff kindly posted.

That leverage, along with the packing tape on the other end, got the spring
into the slot without the otherwise inevitable bouncing around the room
when the screwdriver inevitably slipped (the force is akin to tilting a
refrigerator with the tip of a screwdriver ... nothing you can't handle -
but when it slips, the spring goes flying).

Here's a re-enactment picture of how I got the spring in place!
Loading Image...

Notice the screwdriver at bottom left instead of at top right (where the
video applied leverage with needle-nose pliers).

Now, it's time to spin the brake lock wheel, and I'll be done.
Thanks for all your advice!

[TimR]

Post by Danny D.
I bolted the assembly into a vise and then leveraged with a 2-foot long
screwdriver on the end of the spring (all smaller sizes failed).
You'll notice I leveraged the OPPOSITE end that the guy did in the
video that Jeff kindly posted.

I'm impressed. This one looked dangerous as heck. No way I'd have tried it loose on the bench, I'd have used a vice like you.

Also, instead of holding the saw and turning the brake with the needle nose jaws, I think I've had clamped the needlenose in the vice with the jaws slightly open and used both hands on the saw to twist the brake back locked.

[Danny D.]

Post by TimR
Also, instead of holding the saw and turning the brake with the needle
nose jaws, I think I've had clamped the needlenose in the vice with
the jaws slightly open and used both hands on the saw to twist the
brake back locked.

Well, I chipped off the edge of the cast aluminum, trying to wedge
lever the spring into the unlocked position.

I think I'll hold tight, as I left the rest of the saw at my
neighbor's house.

I'm gonna try to see if I can temporarily assemble the brake on
top of the saw, and use the saw's own lever, to unlock it.

That seems safest, but, I won't go back to that neighbor 'till
tomorrow. Luckily, no trees need felling today ...

[Danny D.]

Post by trader_4
I've never had to do one of these. But the procedure for getting
any spring like that back on is first to get as much room as possible.
From the picture, the part that it pushes against is in it's most
forward position, not retracted. IDK what it takes to get that to
retract, but if it's retracted, then less compression of the spring
will be necessary.

Thanks. I watched the video Jeff suggested, and I think that method
will work as the guy has overcome exactly the two problems that I need
to overcome, which are:

1. Compress the spring enough to get it to STAY in the slot
(It bounces all over the place because the amount of force is
akin to what it takes to move a refrigerator with one hand
pressed up against the bottom with the tip of a screwdriver.)

2. Reset the chain brake without the leverage afforded by the chainsaw
handle (you have no leverage and you need to spin a very hard to
spin little spoked wheel). The force necessary to spin the spoked
while is sort of like spinning a lag bolt with just the tip of
a screwdriver wedged into one of the hex crests.)

But, I'm pretty sure I can do it now, as I know *exactly* how not
do to it by now!

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 02:52:28 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7455/16388696590_ca981a9d47_z.jpg

Model number please?

Looks familiar:
<Loading Image...>
<Loading Image...>

Here's a video on how to do it:

He just uses a pair of big needle nose pliers and brute force.

[Danny D.]

Post by Jeff Liebermann
Model number please?
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/chain-saws.jpg>
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/Husqvarna-136-chain-saw.pdf.jpg>
http://youtu.be/gK7eKakMCz8
He just uses a pair of big needle nose pliers and brute force.

Hi Jeff,
It's the Husqvarna 445, from the local Lowes and it's about a year
old. My neighbor, who is building that suspension bridge here in the
redwoods in your neck of the woods (a bit further north than you),
borrowed it, and chopped up a nice hard madrone (lovely wood) that
had fallen in the last pineapple express.

You probably lost a few antennas in recent weeks (we did).

Anyway, the video was very helpful. I'm amazed you actually found
that video, because it's EXACTLY what I need to do! You're utterly
amazing, and I don't say that all too lightly.

The video makes it look all so easy, but doesn't mention how fantastically
strong that spring is, and, that it flies out all over the place
(ask me how I know)...

I like the trick of bolting down a hold-down clamp, as that spring
has already bounced all over my garage this morning ...

[Ralph Mowery]

Post by Jeff Liebermann
http://youtu.be/gK7eKakMCz8
He just uses a pair of big needle nose pliers and brute force.

As the fellow said there is probably an offical tool to do it. Sometimes it
would be nice to see the offical tool and the way the factory puts things
together. They probably use an expensive tool that is too much for a one
time job, so it is nice to know how to do it at home with minimal tools.

[Danny D.]

Post by Ralph Mowery
As the fellow said there is probably an offical tool to do it. Sometimes it
would be nice to see the offical tool and the way the factory puts things
together. They probably use an expensive tool that is too much for a one
time job, so it is nice to know how to do it at home with minimal tools.

Yes. I agree. If Husqvarna supplies a video on how "they" get that spring
back in place, that would be informative.

Just as you suggested though, just *watching* the video that Jeff supplied
taught me to pay extra special attention to three things which were inhibiting
success.

Armed with that example, I found a *different* way to accomplish getting
the spring in place.

Instead of leveraging with pliers on the outside end of the spring, I
leveraged with a two-foot long screwdriver on the *inside* edge of the
spring.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7306/16388881368_afb75a36fe_c.jpg

And, I used a few wraps of strong packing tape to hold the spring in
place on the outside half:
Loading Image...

Now all I have to do is spin the wheel of fortune to the left of
that photo, which I'll probably do with a screwdriver or pliers
as the guy did in Jeff's wonderful video.

Thanks!

[Ralph Mowery]

"Danny D." <***@gmail.com> wrote in message news:mc5jq4$k1b$***@dont-email.me...
.

Post by Danny D.
Armed with that example, I found a *different* way to accomplish getting
the spring in place.
Instead of leveraging with pliers on the outside end of the spring, I
leveraged with a two-foot long screwdriver on the *inside* edge of the
spring.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7306/16388881368_afb75a36fe_c.jpg
And, I used a few wraps of strong packing tape to hold the spring in
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8596/16389080810_da0b97e8ab_c.jpg
Now all I have to do is spin the wheel of fortune to the left of
that photo, which I'll probably do with a screwdriver or pliers
as the guy did in Jeff's wonderful video.

Sort of reminds me the first time I replaced the drum breaks on my car years
ago. I tried using a screwdriver and finally got the spring on after
several tries on each wheel. Just as the spring would get near where it was
suspose to be, it would slip off. Then next time I was at the auto store I
found a special tool that had a hook on it that would go over the stud.
Worked just fine the first time.

I wonder if the Husqvarna people use somethink like that , or if the spring
comes compressed with a string or wire holding it in the compressed state
and they cut the string when it is in place.

[Danny D.]

Post by Ralph Mowery
Then next time I was at the auto store I
found a special tool that had a hook on it

Heh heh., I have that tool with the little pigs' tail on the end.
Maybe.... just maybe ... it will fit.

[Oren]

On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 23:20:01 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.

Post by Ralph Mowery
Then next time I was at the auto store I
found a special tool that had a hook on it

Heh heh., I have that tool with the little pigs' tail on the end.
Maybe.... just maybe ... it will fit.

I think you mean "brake pliers". I have a set that is about to be
placed in service again for my drum brakes.

<Loading Image...>

[Jeff Liebermann]

Post by Oren
I think you mean "brake pliers". I have a set that is about to be
placed in service again for my drum brakes.
<http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/MST102B.jpg>

Won't work. The problem is that one end of the spring has a nylon
prong thing blocking the center of the spring. Even if you could
compress the spring fully, there's no way to insert the nylon prong
thing with the brake spring compression pliers in place.

[Phil Kangas]

"Jeff Liebermann" <

Post by Ralph Mowery
wrote in message
On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 15:27:28 -0800, Oren <

Post by Oren
I think you mean "brake pliers". I have a set
that is about to be
placed in service again for my drum brakes.
<http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/MST102B.jpg>

Won't work. The problem is that one end of the
spring has a nylon
prong thing blocking the center of the spring.
Even if you could
compress the spring fully, there's no way to
insert the nylon prong
thing with the brake spring compression pliers
in place.
--
Jeff Liebermann

LMAO at all the responses! The only way to install
it is to shoehorn it in. Go look in the silverware
drawer,
there may be a serving spoon in it with a rounded
end
of the handle to match the spring O.D. If the guy
in the
video can compress it with needle nose pliers then
you sure can compress it with a shoehorn type
tool!
Sure that spring is strong but not _that_ strong.
It is
after all seated into a magnesium cover, how
strong
is that cover? And with the needle nose plier
stunt,
the spring can only be inserted half way
putting a terrible strain on the lips of that mag.
pocket!
dannyd has already admitted to breaking his. So,
good luck to you guys out there, I'm gonna shut my
trap now and enjoy the comments... ;>)} BTDT

[Danny D.]

Post by Phil Kangas
dannyd has already admitted to breaking his. So,
good luck to you guys out there, I'm gonna shut my
trap now and enjoy the comments... ;>)} BTDT

Well, I undid the tape and tried to straighten the spring
in the saw itself, using the brake as the lever.

But, I had to have the cover on halfway only (because
it wouldn't fit over the drum due to the brake itself
being contracted).

And the spring sprung.

So, now I'm back at the beginning.
Step 1 is relatively easy (which is getting the spring in
place). It's step 2 that's hard (loosening the brake).

Will try again, but, with Jeff's video, I know what to do.
It just has to be done without damaging the cover more than
I already have.

[Danny D.]

Post by Danny D.
And the spring sprung.

Ah, I see where I went wrong!

Look at this video:

The two steps are:
1. Getting the spring in (not too hard, once you get the hang of it).
2. Unlocking the chain brake (this is the harder part).

What he did differently is that he left the duct tape on
when using the chain brake to unlock the spring.

I agree with him when he said at 1 minute and 35 seconds "good fuckin' luck"
using the pliers to spin the chain lock clockwise to unlock the brake.

I'm gonna try again, using the prybar method to get the spring
in, and then the duct-tape method when unlocking the brake.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 00:24:44 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
Ah, I see where I went wrong!
http://youtu.be/usP5XaXO7-8
1. Getting the spring in (not too hard, once you get the hang of it).
2. Unlocking the chain brake (this is the harder part).
What he did differently is that he left the duct tape on
when using the chain brake to unlock the spring.
I agree with him when he said at 1 minute and 35 seconds "good fuckin' luck"
using the pliers to spin the chain lock clockwise to unlock the brake.
I'm gonna try again, using the prybar method to get the spring
in, and then the duct-tape method when unlocking the brake.

I've only done this once, about 10 years ago, on a similar Husky chain
brake mechanism. I had the same problem, where I couldn't compress
the spring because one end had a plastic center prong blocking any
kind of spring compression tool. So, I used some large pointed
pliers, similar to what was used in the video. I didn't think of
using a piece of scrap metal to old the spring in place, so I just put
a 2x4 over the spring, and LOOSLY clamped the sandwich in a bench
vice. The back end was propped up against the bench so that I could
apply pressure to compress the spring.

I had problems with the pliers, so I made a tool for the purpose. I
slipped a small hose clamp around the pliers and placed a nail ahead
of the hose clamp in the jaws of the pliers. The idea was that the
nail would provide something to push against two sides of the spring
while the hose clamp kept the nail from slipping. That worked.

For rotating the chain lock, I shoved two screwdrivers on opposite
sides of the mechanism, and rotated it with a larger third screwdriver
as a lever arm. It was clumsy, but worked well enough. Or, you can
make a special tool:
<http://www.doityourself.com/forum/outdoor-gasoline-electric-powered-equipment-small-engines/346696-husqvarna-460-chain-brake-stuck.html>

Of course, as soon as I released the bench vise jaws, the 2x4 fell
out, and the spring went flying. So, I did it again, this time
holding the 2x4 to the spring with a woodworking clamp. Eventually, I
was able to slither the spring cover between the spring and the 2x4,
reattach the screws, and live happily ever after.

These might also help:
<http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/18020/Husqvarna-s-built-in-chain-brake-problem-repair-how-to>
It's very long, but there's quite a bit of useful advice in there.
<http://s51.photobucket.com/user/mantidontowel/profile/>
Here's his method of spring compression:
<Loading Image....html?o=40>

[Danny D.]

Post by Jeff Liebermann
Of course, as soon as I released the bench vise jaws, the 2x4 fell
out, and the spring went flying. So, I did it again, this time
holding the 2x4 to the spring with a woodworking clamp.

Hi Jeff,

I solved it, sort of like how you did, thanks to your help and
advice, and to the various suggestions in the videos (and to
one innovation on my own that was shown nowhere else).

While, in the end, I learned how to do it in just five
minutes, it took probably a dozen attempts overall to
come up with the following strategy using the four
hints below, one of which was never described anywhere
as I came up with it on my own).

TRICK #1: Make a cover plate (as described in one video):
Loading Image...

TRICK #2: Make a female star tool (as described in another video):
Loading Image...

TRICK #3: Remove the circlip & pry up (not described in any video):
Loading Image...

TRICK #4: Only use the cover plate for HALF the procedure!
Loading Image...

After I built the tools for tricks #1 and 2, and after I came
up with the unique procedure for trick #3, the final task,
using trick #4 was trivially easy.

While coming up with the procedure took hours, if I were to
do it again tomorrow, with these tricks and tools, it would
take about five minutes, and probably work the very first time.

Thanks for all your help and advice. The video you provided
kicked off all the good ideas.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 05:03:48 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
Thanks for all your help and advice. The video you provided
kicked off all the good ideas.

Congrats. It might be helpful if I explain how I found the videos and
other relevant links. I did NOT use Google web search. I used Google
image search. Something like this:
<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=husqvarna+chain+brake+repair>
Use your imagination for the buzzwords, but what's important are the
pictures. Select anything that looks useful and see what appears.
Same with YouTube videos.
<https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=husqvarna+chainsaw+brake+repair>
Trying to do the same with a text search is much less useful.


Incidentally, I just blundered across this video on the 455 that
claims there's a "special tool" for reinstalling the brake spring.
I'll ask the local dealer or rep for the specifics. It's no in the
catalog.

[Danny D.]

Post by Jeff Liebermann
Congrats. It might be helpful if I explain how I found the videos and
other relevant links. I did NOT use Google web search. I used Google
image search.

Hi Jeff,

Thanks. I understand your search mechanism, and I see how it would work.

I had searched google first and hadn't found the very nice videos you
found, which gave me the ideas of the star socket and the temporary
cover plate.

I came up with the idea of removing the circlip on my own, and you can
see in some of the videos what people thought of the idea of using the
needlenose pliers (fat chance).

With the combination of tricks, procedures, and special tools, the job
is actually *easy*, although I did it at least a dozen times, because
either the spring sprung out (most of the time) or I forgot to put the
rubber post *under* the black plastic.

Most of the trouble was getting the spring in place, and keeping it
there, which is why the tricks and tools were needed.

Thanks. I don't EVER want to do this again, but, if I do, I have the
tools and procedures to make it easy. The real trick is to NEVER remove
the clutch plate when the brake is on!

[Danny D.]

Post by Jeff Liebermann
<https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=husqvarna+chainsaw+brake+repair>
Trying to do the same with a text search is much less useful.

That found this video, which, I must say, is doing things the hard way:

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 08:01:42 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.

Post by Jeff Liebermann
<https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=husqvarna+chainsaw+brake+repair>
Trying to do the same with a text search is much less useful.

http://youtu.be/9PIDvWmJEo4

Good find. I rather like the way he did it. However, he was lucky
that the spring didn't fly off. Actually, I don't really like the
screwdriver which might slip putting a hole in my other hand. I used
pliers, which will make a smaller hole.

I also don't like your "easy way" of pushing the spring from the other
end using the plastic parts. The spring could bend and break the
projecting white prong thing as it is bent into position. While it
takes more brute force to shove the spring in place as in the above
video, there's less risk to breaking plastic parts.

[Danny D.]

Post by Jeff Liebermann
I also don't like your "easy way" of pushing the spring from the other
end using the plastic parts. The spring could bend and break the
projecting white prong thing as it is bent into position. While it
takes more brute force to shove the spring in place as in the above
video, there's less risk to breaking plastic parts.

Hi Jeff,

I don't disagree with you that there is a risk of breaking the nylon
insert.

The biggest risk, I would think, is that you have to do the procedure
about a dozen times before you realize the key elements to avoid, most
of which revolve around the spring bouncing all over the garage.

That spring flew into the air at least a half-dozen times on me, and,
I was amazed. You don't see it. You may hear it land, but each time it
flew, there was absolutely no way I could *see* where it went.

I'm surprised the thing moves that fast.

Today I cut a trail about 500 feet down a mountain. I have another
2000 feet or so to go, and I'll have a dandy shortcut! Whew! Time
to wash off that poison oak covering my body.

I have a secret formula:
1. I shower with Dawn detergent over every inch of my body (surfactant).
2. I splash a very dilute solution of bleach (to oxidize the alcohol/oil).
3. I soap down with Dawn (or Palmolive) again, to wash off the alcohol/oil.

Seems to work.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 19:14:47 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
I don't disagree with you that there is a risk of breaking the nylon
insert.

On later models, the nylon prong morphed into a metal equivalent:
<Loading Image....html>
My guess(tm) is that this would not happen unless there was a problem.

Post by Danny D.
The biggest risk, I would think, is that you have to do the procedure
about a dozen times before you realize the key elements to avoid, most
of which revolve around the spring bouncing all over the garage.

I was wondering why some of the videos showed little effort involved
in retaining the spring after insertion, while others showed a major
nightmare keeping the spring from flying away. Looking at a few
videos, I found that all the springs had the ends filed flat as in:
<Loading Image....html>
(Sorry, that's best I could find). Theoretically, that provides even
pressure to the case when the spring is inserted. However, the thin
part of the ground down spring end provides much less pressure than
the thicker part. The vertical part of the end of the slot in the
orange case, is also not quite vertical to allow for mold release.
That means that different orientations of the spring in the slot offer
different side pressure, which is what causes the spring to buckle and
fly away. With the heavy part of the ground down end on top, the
spring is pushed down, which keeps it from being launched. With the
heavy part of the ground down end at the bottom of the slot, the
spring will buckle out of the slot, causing the spring launches which
you experienced. However, if the end of the slot is radically off
vertical, the spring will buckle and launch, no matter how the spring
is rotated.

Insanity is doing the same thing over and over, and expecting
different results. If it doesn't work, either try something different
or stop to figure out why it's failing. Methinks "a dozen times" is
too many.

[Danny D.]

Post by Jeff Liebermann
<http://s51.photobucket.com/user/mantidontowel/media/husqvarna/032408offhusqcorespondprocdureil-17.jpg.html>

That's a nice find, Jeff, as I would have expected the nylon post
to be too fragile also.

Post by Jeff Liebermann
I was wondering why some of the videos showed little effort involved
in retaining the spring after insertion, while others showed a major
nightmare keeping the spring from flying away.

Yup. For example, when I tried the chain-brake-lever trick, my spring
flew out from under the chain brake so fast I didn't even see where
it went. Yet, in the video, the guy made it look so easy (although,
it's a lot harder than he made it look to get the clutch plate on
when the brake is set. It's like trying to get a car drum on when
the drum brakes are in the set position.)

Post by Jeff Liebermann
<http://s51.photobucket.com/user/mantidontowel/media/husqvarna/032408offhusqcorespondprocdureil-15.jpg.html>

Yes. BOTH ends are filed flat on my spring also.

Post by Jeff Liebermann
However, the thin
part of the ground down spring end provides much less pressure than
the thicker part.

Very interesting (and astute) observation.

Post by Jeff Liebermann
That means that different orientations of the spring in the slot offer
different side pressure, which is what causes the spring to buckle and
fly away.

Makes a lot of sense.
Sometimes my spring stayed in relatively well; other times it flew off.

Post by Jeff Liebermann
Insanity is doing the same thing over and over, and expecting
different results. If it doesn't work, either try something different
or stop to figure out why it's failing. Methinks "a dozen times" is
too many.

Ah, but *each* of the dozen times was using a different set of tools
and procedures. In the end, I think I came up with the *easiest* and
safest way possible, which borrowed heavily from the video you found,
but, which also added the unique element of "leveraging" the spring on
from the closed end (everyone else "compressed" the spring from the open
end).

I saw your post where you thought that might be dangerous, but, the spring
isn't compressed any more in either method, so, I think it's OK, as long
as there is a temporary cover plate.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 22 Feb 2015 18:37:04 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.

Post by Jeff Liebermann
However, the thin
part of the ground down spring end provides much less pressure than
the thicker part.

Very interesting (and astute) observation.

In the distant past, I worked as a sewing machine "attachment maker"
in my father's garment factory. Such spring related problems were
part of the learning experience.

Post by Danny D.
Ah, but *each* of the dozen times was using a different set of tools
and procedures.

After a dozen attempts, with different tools and procedures, perhaps
you might consider that something is wrong that does NOT involve the
tool or procedure? Hint: That which is most obviously correct,
beyond any need of checking, is usually the problem. In this case, it
was the rotation of the spring, which is never mentioned in any of the
videos or instructions.

Post by Danny D.
In the end, I think I came up with the *easiest* and
safest way possible, which borrowed heavily from the video you found,
but, which also added the unique element of "leveraging" the spring on
from the closed end (everyone else "compressed" the spring from the open
end).

It's possibly easier, but as I mentioned, carries the risk of breaking
the plastic prong if the spring is excessively bent on insertion.
There's quite a bit of force in the spring and only a little of that
is required to break the plastic prong.

Post by Danny D.
I saw your post where you thought that might be dangerous, but, the spring
isn't compressed any more in either method, so, I think it's OK, as long
as there is a temporary cover plate.

I don't have any problem exposing myself to danger. I'm considerably
more hesitant to do the same to readers trying to follow my
instructions. Think of it as litigation avoidance. Just pretend
you're writing the repair instructions for the teenage daughter of a
successful personal injury attorney.

The dangerous part is the requirement to hold the chain saw casing in
an area where the tool might land if it slips. It's considered a good
idea to think about where tools will land should they slip. I have a
few knife cuts on my left hand to assist in remembering this
principle. A vise won't work because it will tend to rotate as
pressure is applied. A backstop to push against (such as the bench
vise in one of the videos) is probably good enough, unless the casing
decides to rotate and go sideways.

[Oren]

Post by Jeff Liebermann
that something is wrong that does NOT involve the
tool or procedure? Hint: That which is most obviously correct,
beyond any need of checking, is usually the problem.

Occam's razor?

"...The principle states that among competing hypotheses, the one with
the fewest assumptions should be selected. Other, more complicated
solutions may ultimately prove correct, but—in the absence of
certainty—the fewer assumptions that are made, the better."

:)

[Jeff Liebermann]

Post by Oren

Post by Jeff Liebermann
that something is wrong that does NOT involve the
tool or procedure? Hint: That which is most obviously correct,
beyond any need of checking, is usually the problem.

Occam's razor?

No. It's my variation of Finagle's 3rd Law.
In any collection of data, the figure most obviously correct,
beyond all need of checking, is the mistake.

There are also corollaries:
- No person asked for assistance will see the mistake.
- Everyone who drifts by with unsought advice will see it immediately.

to which I've added:
- Nothing can be done to fix a problem until the blame is assigned.
- The person who identifies the problem will be sentenced to
overtime in order to fix the problem.
- Never blame the person who is expected to fix the problem.
Blaming the uninvolved, innocent, and those on vacation is
usually best.
- The application of an expensive, ugly, and marginal band aid to
fix a problem is preferred over admitting that there is a problem.
- Once the blame is assigned, this genie cannot be stuffed back
into its bottle.
- Blood, fire, and smoke are sure signs of a problem.
- When deciding on an approach, the prime criteria for acceptance
is determining which scheme will keep the phone from ringing.
- If one person can do something in one hour, two people will take
two hours, three people will take three hours, etc.

[Danny D.]

After a dozen attempts, with different tools and procedures, perhaps you
might consider that something is wrong that does NOT involve the tool or
procedure? Hint: That which is most obviously correct, beyond any need
of checking, is usually the problem. In this case, it was the rotation of
the spring, which is never mentioned in any of the videos or instructions

In hindsight, with a dozen of these attempts under my belt, my advice
would be to never remove the clutch plate when the chainsaw brake is in
the tightened position!

That's apparently the root of all the problems! (Inexperience.)

The second most important admonition is to NEVER REMOVE ANYTHING from
the clutch plate! All of us made the mistake of removing the spring
in our attempts to get it back in the locked position.

But, the trick is to MAKE THE SPECIAL SOCKET TOOL so that we can twist
the star wheel back into the unlocked position, without removing anything!

With those two tricks (i.e., experience), the job is easy because the
spring is never removed. The only step needed is the unlocking step.

Once the spring is actually removed, then TWO steps are required, namely
the insertion of the spring, and then the unlocking of the spring.

In the insertion step, a vise is (almost certainly) mandatory, as is
a temporary cover plate. Everyone but I compressed the spring from the
open end, simply because that was the only accessible end.

I made the closed end accessible by removing the retaining ring, which
allowed me to leverage the spring into place. Without a cover plate,
this would never have worked, so, that's why the cover plate is mandatory
if the spring is to be re-inserted.

Once the spring is inserted, then we're back to the trick of using the
star-shaped socket.

In summary, these are what I would have HOPED someone would have told
me, *before* I took the spring out in the first place! :)

[Danny D.]

Just pretend you're writing the
repair instructions for the teenage daughter of a successful personal
injury attorney.

:)

You really would like the inventors' lunch we go to in Palo Alto every
Wednesday at noon ....

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 22 Feb 2015 23:13:42 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.

Just pretend you're writing the
repair instructions for the teenage daughter of a successful personal
injury attorney.

:)
You really would like the inventors' lunch we go to in Palo Alto every
Wednesday at noon ....

There are old inventors and bold inventors, but no old and bold
inventors. The successful inventors don't have time to attend
meetings. The losers talk about inventing things, but rarely go
further. Those that boldly go further, get sued for infringement. I
suspect that membership is therefore self-limiting to those that don't
invent anything.

I've attended writers guild meetings, where everyone talks about
writing, but nobody writes. I erratically attend ham radio meetings,
where few of those attending know which end of the soldering iron to
grab. I attended flying club meetings, where the main topic of
discussion were administrative matters, and not flying. At least when
I attend a concert, I can be certain that I'll hear some music. I
can't imagine what I would do at an inventors lunch meeting? Invent
something on the table cloth? If I'm expected to invent something
during lunch, I would need access to my reference material so that I
know what to steal.

The adage about the teenage daughter of the personal injury attorney
was told to me many years ago by a successful attorney in a discussion
on how to avoid ending up in court. So far, his advice has been quite
useful and accurate.

[Oren]

On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 08:01:42 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
http://youtu.be/9PIDvWmJEo4

Looked easy. I wonder how he lost part of his left thumb?

[Oren]

Post by Jeff Liebermann
Incidentally, I just blundered across this video on the 455 that
claims there's a "special tool" for reinstalling the brake spring.
I'll ask the local dealer or rep for the specifics. It's no in the
catalog.

From your image link, I found this tool made to compress the spring.

"...made a tool up to compress the spring back in place. This works
with the handle off, with the handle on, with the brake spring in
place and the spring out with little effort."

<http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hardest-repair-ever-chain-brake-assembly.90197/page-2>

<https://tinyurl.com/qarvqr3>

[Danny D.]

Post by Jeff Liebermann
For rotating the chain lock, I shoved two screwdrivers on opposite
sides of the mechanism, and rotated it with a larger third screwdriver
as a lever arm. It was clumsy, but worked well enough.

Hi Jeff,

With a two-foot long pipe wrench and a special tool that I made,
rotating the chain lock turned out to be very easy!
Loading Image...

The problem was that the spring sprung the moment I removed
whatever it was that was holding down the spring!
Loading Image...

I lost the spring EVERY SINGLE TIME I removed the covering holding
the spring down!
Loading Image...

The trick was to use the cover plate for only HALF the procedure!
Without the female socket I made, it wouldn't have worked.

But, once I realized how EASY it was to twist the chain lock
with the tool I made, I then realized that the easiest solution
was to put the black plastic holder back on first, and THEN twist
the chain lock.

Voila!

The secret is having the right tools, and knowing the right
sequence. For example, NOBODY came up with the idea of removing
the circlip, which turns out to be the EASIEST way to get the
spring into the first position.

I'll write up a textual HOWTO so others can benefit.

[Will Boyd]

replying to Danny D., Will Boyd wrote:
Be nice to know if Husqvarna makes a tool for it, but you can buy the entire
side (spring installed) for about $20 and the tool would probably cost that
much or more.

[Ralph Mowery]

Post by Will Boyd
Be nice to know if Husqvarna makes a tool for it, but you can buy the entire
side (spring installed) for about $20 and the tool would probably cost that
much or more.

Plety of Youtube videos on this. Trick is to make sure the break is in
the position that lets you have the most room.

Here is one.


http://youtu.be/gK7eKakMCz8

[Danny D.]

Post by Ralph Mowery
I wonder if the Husqvarna people use somethink like that

This is most likely the shape of the tool used to spin
the brake release wheel!

1. Loading Image...
2. Loading Image...
3. Loading Image...

Those are screenshots from this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=KfQDjDBdq0Y#t=255

What the guy did was sacrifice a hole saw, by notching it
to fit the chain brake spoke wheel.

That seems to be the easiest method of all.

[Danny D.]

Post by Danny D.
This is most likely the shape of the tool used to spin
the brake release wheel!

This is apparently the "official" method:
http://blog.vminnovations.com/how-to-reset-husqvarna-chain-brake-fix-stuck-or-locked-brake-problem/

It seems so easy in that video.

[Danny D.]

Post by Danny D.
Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?

Here's the 5-minute sequence, in a nutshell, once you know how to do it!
- Remove the star-wheel circlip & position the spring in the slot.
- Screw the temporary cover plate on (which holds the spring down).
- Leverage the spring into position #1 (bent) with an 18-inch screwdriver.
- Replace the circlip.
- Remove the temporary cover plate (hold the spring down with your hands).
- Replace the permanent plastic cover plates (watch the rubber post!).
- Spin the star wheel into position #2 (straight) using a special socket.
- Voila!

Here's a more detailed pictorial DIY.
It's easy, once you know these tricks and make the special tools!

1. Fabricate a female socket for the chainlock star wheel:
Loading Image...
Loading Image...

Note: Forget about standard drum brake tools; they don't fit:
Loading Image...

2. Fabricate a hold-down plate for 1/2 the spring tensioning:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7453/16410601090_8172e71525_c.jpg

3. Lock the magnesium clutch plate upright in a vise and remove
the circlip and pry up with an 18-inch screwdriver:
Loading Image...

4. Replace the circlip once you have the spring in the 1st position:
Loading Image...

5. REMOVE THE TEMPORARY COVER PLATE!
You can finish the job without removing the plate, but you'll
lose the spring a half dozen times before you realize the folly
of trying to get the spring into the second position with the
cover plate on! If you're VERY LUCKY, you can get the cover
plate off with the spring in the straight (second) position,
but you MUST be very lucky for it to stay in place:
Loading Image...

6. Instead, remove the cover plate while the spring is in the
first position and replace the black original plastic cover:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7351/16410598560_de1ffccf41_c.jpg

NOTE: You can do this ONLY if you've made the special socket
tool described in step #1.

7. With an 18-inch pipe wrench, spin the chainlock into the
second (straight) position using the special socket tool
you made in step #1:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7282/15975460464_8dbabda7ea_z.jpg

8. Do not make the mistake I made, which is to forget to put the
rubber protection strip on the post UNDER the black plastic!
Loading Image...

I had it all done, and had to do it over again because of
that simple faux pas (you can see the rubber endcap in the
middle of this picture above; it's supposed to be inserted
under and through the black plastic, so it has to go on 1st!).

In summary, the tricks that make this task easy are:

A. The socket tool allows you to spin the spring into the second
(straight) position while the black plastic is on. This is
immensely helpful because there is no danger of the spring
springing out when you try to move from the temporary cover
plate to the black plastic (ask me how I know this).

B. The cover plate is still useful, in the first stage of
spring compression, as it keeps both the spring in place,
and it keeps the circular friction clutch in position. With
tape and wire, the friction clutch moves out of position
and is impossible to get back in place due to the enormous
tension so you have to start all over again (ask me how I
know).

C. The cover plate is a hindrence for the second step, that of
straightening the mechanism, becuase that adds tremendous
additional tension, which springs the spring when you remove
the cover plate. So, best to NEVER remove it, by replacing
it with the permanent black plastic (ask me how I know).

D. The unique trick of removing the circlip makes pushing the
spring into the first position IMMENSELY EASY! There is no
easier way to get the spring into that first position (ask
me how I know). In all the videos, they left the circlip
in place, and tried to compress the spring from the other
end, but, it turns out to be easiest to PUSH on the spring
from the attached end. Putting the circlip back on is easy,
so the only danger is to be careful not to bend the brass
pin and not to lose the circlip retaining ring.

[Danny D.]

Post by Danny D.
Here's the 5-minute sequence, in a nutshell, once you know how to do it!
- Remove the star-wheel circlip & position the spring in the slot.
- Screw the temporary cover plate on (which holds the spring down).
- Leverage the spring into position #1 (bent) with an 18-inch screwdriver.
- Replace the circlip.
- Remove the temporary cover plate (hold the spring down with your hands).
- Replace the permanent plastic cover plates (watch the rubber post!).
- Spin the star wheel into position #2 (straight) using a special socket.
- Voila!

BTW, in case someone asks, it's IMPOSSIBLE to turn the star wheel
with just the special female socket tool.

It still takes a lot of force, which is *easy* to apply using an
18-inch pipe wrench on the socket tool.

But, without the pipe wrench leverage, you're never gonna spin that
star wheel.

Here's a list of tools required:
- Special temporary cover plate (to hold down the spring)
- Special female star socket tool (to spin the star wheel)
- 1/8th inch screwdriver (to remove & replace the circlip)
- #2 Philips screwdriver (to remove & replace the screws)
- 18-inch screwdriver (to leverage the spring to position #1)
- 18-inch pipe wrench (to leverage the spring to position #2)
- Vise (to hold everything in place - this is mandatory!)

[Pavel314]

Post by Danny D.
A bunch of trees fell down on my neighbor's property during the last
pineapple express, and his little Ryobi 8" electric chainsaw wasn't
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7348/16576214195_edee2d2572_c.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7455/16388696590_ca981a9d47_z.jpg
End result is that the kickback spring mechanism must have jammed hard,
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7333/16389857079_8bd6f14257_z.jpg
The result is that I had a devil of a time getting the hold-down cover
off today because the chain break coil was tightly wrapped around the
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7285/16388368248_c088a7f82c_c.jpg
I finally was able to loosen the spring circular kickback clamp,
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7288/16389735629_1cf166b3b8_c.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7349/16574371231_5e52e56134_z.jpg
I tried all sorts of leverage tools, but that spring is STRONG!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7281/16389735569_221282dc75_z.jpg
Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?

Not sure if this will help in your case, but I recently had problems getting a Poulon chain saw back together. It turned out that the kick-back bar got into the stop position; when I put it back in the run position, everything went back together without any problems. I had to turn that three-vaned thing to the run position using needle-nosed pliers and it took a lot of force.

Paul

[Marty]

replying to Pavel314, Marty wrote:
The reason it takes so much force is the included angle between the two arms
that compress the spring is about 90 degrees in the brake on position.
Decrease that angle and it is easy-peazy. How? Insert a medium flat blade
screwdriver between the case and the arm with the roller, rotate it until the
blade will remain in position by itself (hold the spring down with your thumb
while doing this) That will open the angle up and make the next step easy..
Then take a larger screwdriver, position it between the arm with the star and
the case, and rotate it until the two arms go over center into the brake off
position. Reassemble your saw! Took me five minutes, no special tools.

--
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