What should I use for a ceiling?

[micky]

What should I use for a ceiling?

A while back I was sitting in my office prattling on the computer when I
heard what sounded like a bookshelf falling over, and then again a few
seconds later, and again a second or two after that.

Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters. The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.

Story follows in a later post, but my question is, Assume it's not
possible to bring in carpenters to hang a sheetrock ceiling.... What
should I myself do instead?

There is no leak in the roof. Other factors, known and presumed (which
I can go into in a subsequent post), caused the ceiling to fall, so if I
make a new ceiling, it doesn't have to be waterproof. Its main purpose
would be to keept the heated air in the bedroom from escaping into the
attic and out the ridge and soffitt vents. Escaping heat would make
the bedroom cold and waste heating oil at the same time.

I've removed most of the sheetrock and I will have done the rest soon,
and except for the last 5 or 10%, the rock wool is lighter and easier to
remove.

What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

[Cindy Hamilton]

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?
A while back I was sitting in my office prattling on the computer when I
heard what sounded like a bookshelf falling over, and then again a few
seconds later, and again a second or two after that.
Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters. The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.
Story follows in a later post, but my question is, Assume it's not
possible to bring in carpenters to hang a sheetrock ceiling.... What
should I myself do instead?
There is no leak in the roof. Other factors, known and presumed (which
I can go into in a subsequent post), caused the ceiling to fall, so if I
make a new ceiling, it doesn't have to be waterproof. Its main purpose
would be to keept the heated air in the bedroom from escaping into the
attic and out the ridge and soffitt vents. Escaping heat would make
the bedroom cold and waste heating oil at the same time.
I've removed most of the sheetrock and I will have done the rest soon,
and except for the last 5 or 10%, the rock wool is lighter and easier to
remove.
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Use sheetrock. It's also fire-resistant and might be required for your
situation. Just hire a carpenter. Have you considered making an
insurance claim?

I'll be fascinated to see your theory on why the ceiling fell in.
Our sheetrock ceiling has been up for nearly 80 years.

[Graphenstone eco paint]

Use sheetrock. It's also fire-resistant and might be required for your situation. Just hire a carpenter. Have you considered making an insurance claim?
I'll be fascinated to see your theory on why the ceiling fell in. Our sheetrock ceiling has been up for nearly 80 years.

If sheetrock is feasible for you, I'd recommend ensuring it's properly secured to avoid similar issues in the future. Regarding insurance claims, that could indeed be worth exploring, especially if the ceiling collapse was due to unforeseen circumstances

[Kimberly Cheatle Roofing]

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?
A while back I was sitting in my office prattling on the computer when I
heard what sounded like a bookshelf falling over, and then again a few
seconds later, and again a second or two after that.
Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters. The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.
Story follows in a later post, but my question is, Assume it's not
possible to bring in carpenters to hang a sheetrock ceiling.... What
should I myself do instead?
There is no leak in the roof. Other factors, known and presumed (which
I can go into in a subsequent post), caused the ceiling to fall, so if I
make a new ceiling, it doesn't have to be waterproof. Its main purpose
would be to keept the heated air in the bedroom from escaping into the
attic and out the ridge and soffitt vents. Escaping heat would make
the bedroom cold and waste heating oil at the same time.
I've removed most of the sheetrock and I will have done the rest soon,
and except for the last 5 or 10%, the rock wool is lighter and easier to
remove.
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Using a cordless drill and torx head fasteners, shouldn't be too hard to
install a suspended ceiling grid and tiles.

Probably not to fire code though.
What would a DC Democrat bureaucrat do?

[Snag]

Post by Kimberly Cheatle Roofing

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?
A while back I was sitting in my office prattling on the computer when I
heard what sounded like a bookshelf falling over, and then again a few
seconds later, and again a second or two after that.
Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters.   The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.
Story follows in a later post, but my question is, Assume it's not
possible to bring in carpenters to hang a sheetrock ceiling.... What
should I myself do instead?
There is no leak in the roof.  Other factors, known and presumed (which
I can go into in a subsequent post), caused the ceiling to fall, so if I
make a new ceiling, it doesn't have to be waterproof.  Its main purpose
would be to keept the heated air in the bedroom from escaping into the
attic and out the ridge and soffitt vents.   Escaping heat would make
the bedroom cold and waste heating oil at the same time.
I've removed most of the sheetrock and I will have done the rest soon,
and except for the last 5 or 10%, the rock wool is lighter and easier to
remove.
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it?  Probably alone.  I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions.  (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Using a cordless drill and torx head fasteners, shouldn't be too hard to
install a suspended ceiling grid and tiles.
Probably not to fire code though.
What would a DC Democrat bureaucrat do?

Blame it on Trump .

[Kimberly Cheatle Roofing]

Post by Kimberly Cheatle Roofing

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?
A while back I was sitting in my office prattling on the computer when I
heard what sounded like a bookshelf falling over, and then again a few
seconds later, and again a second or two after that.
Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters.   The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.
Story follows in a later post, but my question is, Assume it's not
possible to bring in carpenters to hang a sheetrock ceiling.... What
should I myself do instead?
There is no leak in the roof.  Other factors, known and presumed (which
I can go into in a subsequent post), caused the ceiling to fall, so if I
make a new ceiling, it doesn't have to be waterproof.  Its main purpose
would be to keept the heated air in the bedroom from escaping into the
attic and out the ridge and soffitt vents.   Escaping heat would make
the bedroom cold and waste heating oil at the same time.
I've removed most of the sheetrock and I will have done the rest soon,
and except for the last 5 or 10%, the rock wool is lighter and easier to
remove.
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it?  Probably alone.  I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions.  (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Using a cordless drill and torx head fasteners, shouldn't be too hard
to install a suspended ceiling grid and tiles.
Probably not to fire code though.
What would a DC Democrat bureaucrat do?

  Blame it on Trump .

Yah, and then Bob Fauxfacts and Ed Propaganda would blame it on climate
change.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Oct 2024 06:24:18 -0400, Kimberly Cheatle

Post by Kimberly Cheatle Roofing

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Using a cordless drill and torx head fasteners, shouldn't be too hard to
install a suspended ceiling grid and tiles.

Not a bad idea. Probably have more air leaking than I would want, but
able to put in in sections, and noting heavy to lift.

Post by Kimberly Cheatle Roofing
Probably not to fire code though.

Really? There is code about this?

[Scott Lurndal]

Post by micky
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Oct 2024 06:24:18 -0400, Kimberly Cheatle

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Rent one of these for the weekend.

https://www.harborfreight.com/150-lb-capacity-drywall-panel-hoist-58307.html

[Clare Snyder]

Post by Scott Lurndal

Post by micky
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Oct 2024 06:24:18 -0400, Kimberly Cheatle

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Rent one of these for the weekend.
https://www.harborfreight.com/150-lb-capacity-drywall-panel-hoist-58307.html

If you are doing a project that is going to take several days you
are cheaper to buy it on sale ( $200) and take your time then list it
on craigslist or whatever when you are done (either sell it, or if you
have room to store it, rent it out to someone who isn't as smart as
you - - - -

[Alexandria Ocrazyo-Vortex]

Post by micky
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Oct 2024 06:24:18 -0400, Kimberly Cheatle

Post by Kimberly Cheatle Roofing

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Using a cordless drill and torx head fasteners, shouldn't be too hard to
install a suspended ceiling grid and tiles.

Not a bad idea. Probably have more air leaking than I would want, but
able to put in in sections, and noting heavy to lift.

Post by Kimberly Cheatle Roofing
Probably not to fire code though.

Really? There is code about this?

Yah, 1/2" sheet rock, taped and 2 coats drywall compound required here.

Might even be 5/8" sheetrock in a multi-unit dwelling?

[Clare Snyder]

On Sat, 2 Nov 2024 16:43:25 -0400, Alexandria Ocrazyo-Vortex

Post by Alexandria Ocrazyo-Vortex

Post by micky
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Oct 2024 06:24:18 -0400, Kimberly Cheatle

Post by Kimberly Cheatle Roofing

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Using a cordless drill and torx head fasteners, shouldn't be too hard to
install a suspended ceiling grid and tiles.

Not a bad idea. Probably have more air leaking than I would want, but
able to put in in sections, and noting heavy to lift.

Post by Kimberly Cheatle Roofing
Probably not to fire code though.

Really? There is code about this?

Yah, 1/2" sheet rock, taped and 2 coats drywall compound required here.
Might even be 5/8" sheetrock in a multi-unit dwelling?

Where 5/8 is required a lot of guys are going 1/2 in small panels
with 3/8 large panels glued over - overkill for code and sound
reduction and less taping/mussing/ sanding

[Graphenstone eco paint]

Hi there! That sounds like quite a predicament you've found yourself in! Given the situation, if you’re looking to create a new ceiling without the help of professionals, one option you might consider is using plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) to create a more robust structure.

These materials are relatively easy to work with and can provide a solid ceiling while helping to retain heat in the room. Once you’ve installed the boards, a good-quality ceiling paint will give it a nice finish and help reflect light, making the room feel brighter

[Clare Snyder]

On Wed, 30 Oct 2024 13:15:03 +0000, Graphenstone eco paint

Hi there! That sounds like quite a predicament you've found yourself in! Given the situation, if you’re looking to create a new ceiling without the help of professionals, one option you might consider is using plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) to create a more robust structure.
These materials are relatively easy to work with and can provide a solid ceiling while helping to retain heat in the room. Once you’ve installed the boards, a good-quality ceiling paint will give it a nice finish and help reflect light, making the room feel brighter.

Even simpler is T&G pine

[Carol]

Post by Graphenstone eco paint
Hi there! That sounds like quite a predicament you've found yourself
in! Given the situation, if you’re looking to create a new ceiling
without the help of professionals, one option you might consider is
using plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) to create a more robust
structure.
These materials are relatively easy to work with and can provide a
solid ceiling while helping to retain heat in the room. Once you’ve
installed the boards, a good-quality ceiling paint will give it a
nice finish and help reflect light, making the room feel brighter.

I have 2 ceilings made of plywood. Bathroom and sunroom (also huge
porch).

[h***@ccanoemail.com]

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?

PVC 16 inch panels ? Trusscore is one brand name.
I haven't used it but it might suit your needs.

Or half-sheets of textured wallboard :

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/exceliner-fibreglass-reinforced-polyester-resin-wall-panel/1000154234

John T.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Oct 2024 09:24:31 -0400,

Post by h***@ccanoemail.com

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?

PVC 16 inch panels ? Trusscore is one brand name.
I haven't used it but it might suit your needs.

A real alternative! Very light, easy to do myself!

Industry-leading ½” thick panel, combined with unique webbed inner truss
design, provides outstanding strength and rigidity that supports attic
insulation loads. (The rock wool weighed more than the fiberglass, I
think, but there will be no more rock wool!)

Meets FDA & USDA (US) and CFIA (Canada) requirements for walls and
ceilings for commercial kitchens and food prep areas. (Does that imply
it's okay for bedrooms too?)

FDA-approved panels are warrantied to never mold, rot or absorb
moisture.

LONG-LASTING Building and business owners love the fact that Duramax
PVC panels will pass inspection now and years from now.

Post by h***@ccanoemail.com
http://youtu.be/5C1sZhYBbq0
http://youtu.be/ejDf5UxXKsE

Haven't found Kodiak brand for sale yet, but Duramax 16" x 8' costs $24
a panel (call for 20'), but if I used 8' I would need about 30, $720.

https://www.duralightplastics.com/product/16-ez-liner-pvc-interlocking-liner-panel-white/
$75/for 16" x 20' panel I could need 10, for $750. That's not good.
Plus some trim stuff needed for wall-edges, maybe at least $60. Darn.

Whatever I use, there is no point in doing part of the ceiling. The
warm air will just escape through the part that is open.
https://www.houzz.in/magazine/what-are-the-pros-and-cons-of-pvc-ceiling-panels-stsetivw-vs~113237687

Post by h***@ccanoemail.com
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/exceliner-fibreglass-reinforced-polyester-resin-wall-panel/1000154234

Are these really $82.98, Canadian, per 4x8' sheet?
And 20 pounds

1/2" sheetrock costs about 17 dollars american, but even what they call
Ultra-light sheetrock weighs 39 pounds. yes, I am looking into a
drywall lift.

Here's a 3rd choice one of my searches came up with;
DIY Stretch Ceiling Room - Easy Install Suspended Ceiling Grid with Grey
Glossy PVC Stretch Ceiling - Drop Ceiling System, Ceiling Panel (Kit #71
for Rooms up to 11'10'' * 19'9'')
https://www.amazon.com/DIY-Stretch-Ceiling-Room-Suspended/dp/B0DKB2YKB5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

Post by h***@ccanoemail.com
John T.

Unfortunately, the biggest one they have is not quite as big as my room.
I don't know who would want this except for someone like me. The video
is good, but shows them installing it just to put spotlights in. I think
they are bluffing and it's really meant for someone like me.

In fact, my first idea was a tarp, like
Tarp Cover White Heavy Duty 16X20 Thick Material, Waterproof, Great for
Tarpaulin Canopy Tent, Boat, RV Or Pool Cover (16X20 Heavy Duty Poly
Tarp White)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GZXRW7Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3 or
Double-Sided Waterproof Poly Tarp 14x20 Feet 5mil Thick Polyethylene
Tarps, Perfect for Outdoor Use, Plastic Cover & Mat for Tent Camping
Storage Boat Bikes Vehicles
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CYBK69Z3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4

I don't like skewing the answers so I didn't say I had this in mind, but
I was going to ask you all what material would be best if I just used a
tarp. There are lots of other choices.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Tarp+14x20+Feet

[h***@ccanoemail.com]

Post by micky
I don't like skewing the answers so I didn't say I had this in mind, but
I was going to ask you all what material would be best if I just used a
tarp. There are lots of other choices.

Lots of folks are using tarps for shelter these days ..
.. unfortunately ..
... good luck with that, Micky.
Recent - 20 temps + wind chill had me
thinking about those homeless folks ..
Merry Friggin' Xmas ..
John T.

[Tomi Silvah]

Post by micky
Meets FDA & USDA (US) and CFIA (Canada) requirements for walls and
ceilings for commercial kitchens and food prep areas. (Does that imply
it's okay for bedrooms too?)
FDA-approved panels are warrantied to never mold, rot or absorb
moisture.
LONG-LASTING Building and business owners love the fact that Duramax
PVC panels will pass inspection now and years from now.

Does it meet fire code?

I suppose if you're out in the middle of nowhere, prolly no one gives a shit.
If in a multi-dwelling, now they care.

And then there's the insurance company.
Seems they are always looking for reasons to deny claims.

FWIW, if you live in a blue state and hire illegals,
the building permit and contractor insurance requirements are prolly waived.

They don't need ID to vote either.

[Cindy Hamilton]

Post by Tomi Silvah
FWIW, if you live in a blue state and hire illegals,
the building permit and contractor insurance requirements are prolly waived.

Evidence?

[Graphenstone eco paint]

One popular method is using tongue-and-groove wood panels or even plywood, which can add a charming aesthetic to your space while being relatively easy to install. Alternatively, you could use suspended ceiling tiles, which might be a great way to cover up any remaining insulation and give you a fresh look.

Once you've sorted out the ceiling structure, don’t forget about the finishing touches! A good quality [url=https://graphenstone-ecopaints.store/product-category/ceiling-paint/]ceiling paint[/url] will help brighten up the room and provide a clean, polished look. It's especially important to choose a paint that has a flat or matte finish, as this will hide imperfections and provide an elegant finish.

[Retirednoguilt]

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?
A while back I was sitting in my office prattling on the computer when I
heard what sounded like a bookshelf falling over, and then again a few
seconds later, and again a second or two after that.
Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters. The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.
Story follows in a later post, but my question is, Assume it's not
possible to bring in carpenters to hang a sheetrock ceiling.... What
should I myself do instead?
There is no leak in the roof. Other factors, known and presumed (which
I can go into in a subsequent post), caused the ceiling to fall, so if I
make a new ceiling, it doesn't have to be waterproof. Its main purpose
would be to keept the heated air in the bedroom from escaping into the
attic and out the ridge and soffitt vents. Escaping heat would make
the bedroom cold and waste heating oil at the same time.
I've removed most of the sheetrock and I will have done the rest soon,
and except for the last 5 or 10%, the rock wool is lighter and easier to
remove.
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

First thing I'd do is check carefully for termites and for carpenter ants.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Oct 2024 09:52:25 -0400, Retirednoguilt

Post by Retirednoguilt

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

First thing I'd do is check carefully for termites and for carpenter ants.

Thanks. No evidence of them. No evidence of water damage. See some
other reply, possibly not yet posted, for my thoughts on why it fell
down.

[Bob F]

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?
A while back I was sitting in my office prattling on the computer when I
heard what sounded like a bookshelf falling over, and then again a few
seconds later, and again a second or two after that.
Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters. The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.
Story follows in a later post, but my question is, Assume it's not
possible to bring in carpenters to hang a sheetrock ceiling.... What
should I myself do instead?
There is no leak in the roof. Other factors, known and presumed (which
I can go into in a subsequent post), caused the ceiling to fall, so if I
make a new ceiling, it doesn't have to be waterproof. Its main purpose
would be to keept the heated air in the bedroom from escaping into the
attic and out the ridge and soffitt vents. Escaping heat would make
the bedroom cold and waste heating oil at the same time.
I've removed most of the sheetrock and I will have done the rest soon,
and except for the last 5 or 10%, the rock wool is lighter and easier to
remove.
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Is this a rerun? I seem to remember it from a month or more ago.

[h***@ccanoemail.com]

Post by Bob F

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?
A while back I was sitting in my office prattling on the computer when I
heard what sounded like a bookshelf falling over, and then again a few
seconds later, and again a second or two after that.
Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters. The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.

Is this a rerun? I seem to remember it from a month or more ago.

Micky has been busy clearing away the debris and
fixing his microwave - give him a break ! :-)
John T.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Oct 2024 16:47:35 -0400,

Post by h***@ccanoemail.com

Post by Bob F

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?
A while back I was sitting in my office prattling on the computer when I
heard what sounded like a bookshelf falling over, and then again a few
seconds later, and again a second or two after that.
Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters. The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.

Is this a rerun? I seem to remember it from a month or more ago.

Micky has been busy clearing away the debris and

That's right. If Bob remembers it, I'm sure I mentioned it, but I
didn't ask for ceiling suggestions then.

I'm glad I asked. Several ideas I hadn't thought of.

Post by h***@ccanoemail.com
fixing his microwave - give him a break ! :-)
John T.

[Jim Joyce]

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?

<snip>

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it be to
do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm willing to buy
more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I can't stand on those
leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely, please don't waste our time by
telling me to bring in builders to do sheetrock.)

Drywall (Sheetrock, for example) is the obvious choice, but you should determine
why the previous ceiling failed. Full sheets of drywall are heavy, so plan ahead
on how you're going to get the sheets home from the store (get them delivered?)
and how you're going to drag them to the work area. A drywall lift is going to
be required, since you're working alone. You can buy a lift, or you can rent one
from places like Home Depot. You'll need drywall screws and I recommend the
special driver bit that sinks the screws to the perfect depth without breaking
the paper.

Once you have a new ceiling in place, tape and mud the seams, then paint, if
desired. Lastly, add the proper amount and type of insulation.

[Carol]

Post by Jim Joyce

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?

<snip>

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it
be to do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm
willing to buy more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I
can't stand on those leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely,
please don't waste our time by telling me to bring in builders to
do sheetrock.)

Drywall (Sheetrock, for example) is the obvious choice, but you
should determine why the previous ceiling failed. Full sheets of
drywall are heavy, so plan ahead on how you're going to get the
sheets home from the store (get them delivered?) and how you're going
to drag them to the work area. A drywall lift is going to be
required, since you're working alone. You can buy a lift, or you can
rent one from places like Home Depot. You'll need drywall screws and
I recommend the special driver bit that sinks the screws to the
perfect depth without breaking the paper.
Once you have a new ceiling in place, tape and mud the seams, then
paint, if desired. Lastly, add the proper amount and type of
insulation.

Jim, proper drywall ceil screws didn't use to exist. Gets you from
40-60 years later and it falls down.

It's already up there but once redone, you won;t see it again.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 1 Nov 2024 00:54:26 -0000 (UTC), "Carol"

Post by Jim Joyce

Post by Jim Joyce

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?

<snip>

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it
be to do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm
willing to buy more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I
can't stand on those leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely,
please don't waste our time by telling me to bring in builders to
do sheetrock.)

Drywall (Sheetrock, for example) is the obvious choice, but you
should determine why the previous ceiling failed. Full sheets of
drywall are heavy, so plan ahead on how you're going to get the
sheets home from the store (get them delivered?)

Yes, delivered sounds good.

Post by Jim Joyce

Post by Jim Joyce
and how you're going
to drag them to the work area.

Yes, there's a big problem. One at a time up stairs with a 180^ bend in
them. I'm not sure how heavy 39 pounds is.

Post by Jim Joyce
A drywall lift is going to be

Post by Jim Joyce
required, since you're working alone. You can buy a lift, or you can
rent one from places like Home Depot. You'll need drywall screws and
I recommend the special driver bit that sinks the screws to the
perfect depth without breaking the paper.

Special driver bit sounds good. How come the ones sold at HDepot by
Dewalt are not listed as magnetized,
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXFIT-ULTRA-1-in-Phillips-2-Screwdriving-Bits-with-Drywall-Dimpler-4-Pack-DWAF1PH2D-4H/328071302

but the ones by a company I've never heard of on Amazon are?
https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Positioning-Screwdriver-Drywall-Plasterboard/dp/B09PL9BX2F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa
https://www.amazon.com/Teursa-5pcs-Premium-Magnetic-Drywall/dp/B0CY8VCZ2S/ref=sr_1_2_sspa

Why are there longer ones and short ones? Is short for when you're
inside a closet?

What's bad is that I have a whole room-full of furniture plus other
things in the room and no other place to put them. REPLACED BY NEXT
PARAGRAPH: Could I squeeze them into half the room, do that half,
squeeze them into the other half and do that half, then unsqueeze them?
Makes me tired just thinking about it.

**I only have to make 4 or 5 x 7 or 8 feet empty, put up one, then move
stuff underneath it to make room to do next sheet, and so on. Much less
moving stuff than the previous paragraph, much less squeezing needed,
much less moving to put things back the way they were. I have about 6
full sheets to put up, and some 2' pieces.

Post by Jim Joyce

Post by Jim Joyce
Once you have a new ceiling in place, tape and mud the seams, then
paint, if desired. Lastly, add the proper amount and type of
insulation.

More work. Did I mention that the back pain doctor has given me 4 shots,
two different methods, and none worked? One worked for one day. I
think he implied these are the only two methods he has, but he barely
talks, so this week, I'll see what else he has to say.

Post by Jim Joyce
Jim, proper drywall ceil screws didn't use to exist. Gets you from
40-60 years later and it falls down.

Are you saying it's not uncommon for naild-up ceilings to fall down
after 40-60 years? I've never heard that. I was blaming my putting
weight on the attic trusses, which most people don't do.

Post by Jim Joyce
It's already up there but once redone, you won;t see it again.

???? What's up there? what won't I see again?

[Cindy Hamilton]

Post by micky
Yes, there's a big problem. One at a time up stairs with a 180^ bend in
them. I'm not sure how heavy 39 pounds is.

Have you ever lifted a 5-gallon bottle of water (like for the
office water cooler)? That's about 40 pounds.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 2 Nov 2024 21:42:30 -0000 (UTC), Cindy

Post by Cindy Hamilton

Post by micky
Yes, there's a big problem. One at a time up stairs with a 180^ bend in
them. I'm not sure how heavy 39 pounds is.

Have you ever lifted a 5-gallon bottle of water (like for the
office water cooler)? That's about 40 pounds.

I can't remember ever doing that. I have lifted various weights, of
course, but I have a terrible memory for numbers. Even if I knew it was,
3, or 4, or 5 gallons of water or gasoline at the time, I will have long
forgotten by now, so even if I recall lifting something, I won't know
how much it was.

[h***@ccanoemail.com]

Post by micky
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 2 Nov 2024 21:42:30 -0000 (UTC), Cindy

Post by Cindy Hamilton

Post by micky
Yes, there's a big problem. One at a time up stairs with a 180^ bend in
them. I'm not sure how heavy 39 pounds is.

Have you ever lifted a 5-gallon bottle of water (like for the
office water cooler)? That's about 40 pounds.

I can't remember ever doing that. I have lifted various weights, of
course, but I have a terrible memory for numbers. Even if I knew it was,
3, or 4, or 5 gallons of water or gasoline at the time, I will have long
forgotten by now, so even if I recall lifting something, I won't know
how much it was.

A good example - the office water cooler bottle !
But the true test is carrying it up a flight of stairs ..
- not the compact water bottle with a nice handle -
but rather the big and awkward many sheets
< or even half-sheets > of drywall ..
.. not a job for this olde guy.
Good luck Micky
John T.

[RJH]

Post by micky

Post by Jim Joyce
Drywall (Sheetrock, for example) is the obvious choice, but you
should determine why the previous ceiling failed. Full sheets of
drywall are heavy, so plan ahead on how you're going to get the
sheets home from the store (get them delivered?)

Yes, delivered sounds good.

Post by Jim Joyce
and how you're going
to drag them to the work area.

Yes, there's a big problem. One at a time up stairs with a 180^ bend in
them. I'm not sure how heavy 39 pounds is.

These things are handy:

https://boltworld.co.uk/products/roughneck-panel-and-board-carrier-rou32025/

Up-stairs and round bends is always going to be difficult though. To get
boards upstairs here I needed to cut them down.

I had a couple of ceilings overboarded recently. One of the plasterers did it
alone and without a lift by cutting the boards into maybe 6 panels, and
screwing each in place one by one. Looked like a patchwork quilt - until he
skimmed over it. Seemed to work well and took less than a day for a room.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 2 Nov 2024 23:09:25 -0000 (UTC), RJH

Post by RJH

Post by micky

Post by Jim Joyce
Drywall (Sheetrock, for example) is the obvious choice, but you
should determine why the previous ceiling failed. Full sheets of
drywall are heavy, so plan ahead on how you're going to get the
sheets home from the store (get them delivered?)

Yes, delivered sounds good.

Post by Jim Joyce
and how you're going
to drag them to the work area.

Yes, there's a big problem. One at a time up stairs with a 180^ bend in
them. I'm not sure how heavy 39 pounds is.

https://boltworld.co.uk/products/roughneck-panel-and-board-carrier-rou32025/

When I first got here, before I put in my new basement workbench (a sold
door), I added 2 4x8 sheets to what the previous owner had done to the
laundry room. I have a vague memory of, later on, buying one of these,
but I haven't seen it in 20 years or more, so maybe I just thought about
buying one.

Post by RJH
Up-stairs and round bends is always going to be difficult though. To get

Right, I don't think it would help me much at the stairway. Just have
to drag it, leaving gypsum abrasions behind.

Post by RJH
boards upstairs here I needed to cut them down.

That's right. You rmeind me that I cut mine at the height where the
work bench would be so that the seam wasn't visible. That won't work
for a ceiling. More to tape and mud, and not at real edges which are
recessed to make room for the mud.

Post by RJH
I had a couple of ceilings overboarded recently. One of the plasterers did it
alone and without a lift by cutting the boards into maybe 6 panels, and
screwing each in place one by one. Looked like a patchwork quilt - until he
skimmed over it. Seemed to work well and took less than a day for a room.

That's an encouraging thought.

My mother once hired a blind painter to paint the inside of some of all
of our house. She took off the wall plates herself in advance and put
them back on after he left. He was gone each day by the time I got home
from school, so I never met him, but I think he wasn't totally blind.

[RJH]

Post by micky

Post by RJH
I had a couple of ceilings overboarded recently. One of the plasterers did it
alone and without a lift by cutting the boards into maybe 6 panels, and
screwing each in place one by one. Looked like a patchwork quilt - until he
skimmed over it. Seemed to work well and took less than a day for a room.

That's an encouraging thought.

A thing to bear in mind is that in the UK at least we don't tend to drywall
(IIUC tape and paste over each join), although I gather it's catching on in
new builds. We're more likely to get a plasterer in, who skims the entire
surface with a thin coat, maybe 1/4", of plaster.

It's highly skilled, and very hard on the body - I don't think plasterers have
a long career. One guy, probably mid-late 30s, I used had to inject himself
every hour for the pain, and to stop the muscles seizing (so he told me,
anyway).

The advantage of drywall/tape/paste is it's relatively low skill. Even I can
do it. Sort of :-)

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 02 Nov 2024 19:37:30 -0400, micky

Post by micky

Post by RJH
https://boltworld.co.uk/products/roughneck-panel-and-board-carrier-rou32025/

When I first got here, before I put in my new basement workbench (a sold
door), I added 2 4x8 sheets to what the previous owner had done to the
laundry room. I have a vague memory of, later on, buying one of these,
but I haven't seen it in 20 years or more, so maybe I just thought about
buying one.

Forgot to say that I didn't do any taping or mudding. It was a basement
laundry room after all. I don't know what I would have done if it were
my bedroom.

[Clare Snyder]

On Fri, 1 Nov 2024 00:54:26 -0000 (UTC), "Carol"

Post by Carol

Post by Jim Joyce

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?

<snip>

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it
be to do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm
willing to buy more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I
can't stand on those leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely,
please don't waste our time by telling me to bring in builders to
do sheetrock.)

Drywall (Sheetrock, for example) is the obvious choice, but you
should determine why the previous ceiling failed. Full sheets of
drywall are heavy, so plan ahead on how you're going to get the
sheets home from the store (get them delivered?) and how you're going
to drag them to the work area. A drywall lift is going to be
required, since you're working alone. You can buy a lift, or you can
rent one from places like Home Depot. You'll need drywall screws and
I recommend the special driver bit that sinks the screws to the
perfect depth without breaking the paper.
Once you have a new ceiling in place, tape and mud the seams, then
paint, if desired. Lastly, add the proper amount and type of
insulation.

Jim, proper drywall ceil screws didn't use to exist. Gets you from
40-60 years later and it falls down.
It's already up there but once redone, you won;t see it again.

When installing ceiling drywall I like a bead of accoustic cement
(adheisive) down each joist or each joist-line on the panel which will
be the PRIMARY panel retention device. The screws hold it in place
until the adhesive sets. Really good when doing 2 layer work where the
first heavy layer can go up in smaller sheats, with the thin finish
layer being full sheet (sometimes 12 foot) glued to the first layer
and screwed every 16 inches on 16 inch centers. A WHOLE LOT less
taping and mudding and sanding

[Cindy Hamilton]

Post by Clare Snyder
On Fri, 1 Nov 2024 00:54:26 -0000 (UTC), "Carol"

Post by Carol

Post by Jim Joyce

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?

<snip>

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it
be to do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm
willing to buy more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I
can't stand on those leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely,
please don't waste our time by telling me to bring in builders to
do sheetrock.)

Drywall (Sheetrock, for example) is the obvious choice, but you
should determine why the previous ceiling failed. Full sheets of
drywall are heavy, so plan ahead on how you're going to get the
sheets home from the store (get them delivered?) and how you're going
to drag them to the work area. A drywall lift is going to be
required, since you're working alone. You can buy a lift, or you can
rent one from places like Home Depot. You'll need drywall screws and
I recommend the special driver bit that sinks the screws to the
perfect depth without breaking the paper.
Once you have a new ceiling in place, tape and mud the seams, then
paint, if desired. Lastly, add the proper amount and type of
insulation.

Jim, proper drywall ceil screws didn't use to exist. Gets you from
40-60 years later and it falls down.
It's already up there but once redone, you won;t see it again.

When installing ceiling drywall I like a bead of accoustic cement
(adheisive) down each joist or each joist-line on the panel which will
be the PRIMARY panel retention device. The screws hold it in place
until the adhesive sets. Really good when doing 2 layer work where the
first heavy layer can go up in smaller sheats, with the thin finish
layer being full sheet (sometimes 12 foot) glued to the first layer
and screwed every 16 inches on 16 inch centers. A WHOLE LOT less
taping and mudding and sanding

I'm pretty sure the drywall in my almost 80-year-old house is held
on by nails. I don't recall doing any demo on the oldest stuff,
only on drywall that was added later (and ineptly). Maybe the
builder used ring-shank nails. He was building it for his own
family, so he did the best job he could (considering he was a
stonemason and not a carpenter).

[Clare Snyder]

On Thu, 7 Nov 2024 18:17:18 -0000 (UTC), Cindy Hamilton

Post by Cindy Hamilton

Post by Clare Snyder
On Fri, 1 Nov 2024 00:54:26 -0000 (UTC), "Carol"

Post by Carol

Post by Jim Joyce

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?

<snip>

Post by micky
What should I do, what should I do it with, and how hard would it
be to do it? Probably alone. I have a lot of tools and I'm
willing to buy more, but there is no room for scaffolding and I
can't stand on those leg extesnsions. (I'm asking you nicely,
please don't waste our time by telling me to bring in builders to
do sheetrock.)

Drywall (Sheetrock, for example) is the obvious choice, but you
should determine why the previous ceiling failed. Full sheets of
drywall are heavy, so plan ahead on how you're going to get the
sheets home from the store (get them delivered?) and how you're going
to drag them to the work area. A drywall lift is going to be
required, since you're working alone. You can buy a lift, or you can
rent one from places like Home Depot. You'll need drywall screws and
I recommend the special driver bit that sinks the screws to the
perfect depth without breaking the paper.
Once you have a new ceiling in place, tape and mud the seams, then
paint, if desired. Lastly, add the proper amount and type of
insulation.

Jim, proper drywall ceil screws didn't use to exist. Gets you from
40-60 years later and it falls down.
It's already up there but once redone, you won;t see it again.

When installing ceiling drywall I like a bead of accoustic cement
(adheisive) down each joist or each joist-line on the panel which will
be the PRIMARY panel retention device. The screws hold it in place
until the adhesive sets. Really good when doing 2 layer work where the
first heavy layer can go up in smaller sheats, with the thin finish
layer being full sheet (sometimes 12 foot) glued to the first layer
and screwed every 16 inches on 16 inch centers. A WHOLE LOT less
taping and mudding and sanding

I'm pretty sure the drywall in my almost 80-year-old house is held
on by nails. I don't recall doing any demo on the oldest stuff,
only on drywall that was added later (and ineptly). Maybe the
builder used ring-shank nails. He was building it for his own
family, so he did the best job he could (considering he was a
stonemason and not a carpenter).

My house, built in the seventies, is also nailed - using "blue nails"
with rings on them - and you can usually tell a house that was nailend
and not screwed by the numerous "pimples" that show up, particularly
on exterior walls, when the nails "pop". I've taken to just "sinking"
the offending nails and screwing an inch or so away, then patching
both holes. If you don't "dink" them pretty well through the drywall
the rust and pop through again - - -
Patching with "mud" almost always ends up causing problems when you go
to paint with water based paint /promer so I've taken to using a spray
can of laquer primer (or any laquer) to spot over the filler to seal
it against moisture after final sanding before priming. No more
cussing and throwing hammers!!!!!

[Keven O'Connel]

Post by micky
What should I use for a ceiling?
A while back I was sitting in my office prattling on the computer when I
heard what sounded like a bookshelf falling over, and then again a few
seconds later, and again a second or two after that.
Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters. The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.

If the builders skimped on fasteners in the bedroom ceiling,
did the clowns do the rest of the ceilings properly?

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 2 Nov 2024 06:41:09 -0400, Keven O'Connel

Post by Keven O'Connel

Post by micky
Investigating, I found that a little over 3/4's of the ceiling my
bedroom had fallen down, followed by 3" of rock wood, and in some area,
batts (sp?) of fiberglass hung from the rafters. The room is about 14'
x 20', so about 220 sq. ft.

If the builders skimped on fasteners in the bedroom ceiling,
did the clowns do the rest of the ceilings properly?

They used 1 3/8" nails, which are what I see recommended (1 1/4 - 1 3/8)
but I also see every 12 inches, and so far I've removed about 140 ft2
and only found about 10 nails. I looked for them, because I don't want
to cut myself, but only found 10. On a piece 3 feet long, there would
be only 1, and probably no empty holes. Some might have fallen out, but
otoh, they do push out but not without wiggling and pushing. The
sheetrock is now outside under a tarp, and a little still in the house,
waiting until I borrow a pickup. I will pay even more attention to how
many nail holes there are when I'm loading it into the truck.

Between few and none of my neighbors would have been in the attic
stepping on the trusses. Well, I have to go up there again and review
the center part, where a few poeple might have gone. By the time I got
here, there was rock wood and fiberglass on top of the ceiling. I think
I was standing on the truss, not the ceiling joists, although one time
out of about 100, my foot slipped and I did stick it through the
bathroom ceiling